Royal Mail Hotel Dunkeld

At the southern foot of the Grampians, this Dunkeld institution pairs a country pub with one of regional Victoria's most decorated kitchens. The fine-dining room, Wickens, runs a seasonal tasting menu under chef Robin Wickens, served Thursday through Saturday and drawing the bulk of its produce from a 1.2-hectare organic kitchen garden, orchards and pastures on the property. The cellar is the other headline: a vast list weighted toward Bordeaux and Burgundy that has earned international attention. A more relaxed bistro and bar handle everyday dining, and rooms look out toward Mount Sturgeon and Mount Abrupt. It remains a rare reason to point the car three hours west of Melbourne for dinner alone.

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